CELL Westman Island Trip

On Monday, October 29th, we flew out to the Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands) arechipelago for a two-day field trip to learn about the history and geology of these rugged and beautiful islands off the south coast of Iceland. Heimaey, the only inhabited island, has been a main fishing center since Iceland was first settled. Approximately 15% of the entire fish quota in Iceland is caught from trawlers that call the Westmans home. In l973, Heimaey made international news when a volcanic eruption led to the evacuation of the town. Approximately, 500 houses and buildings were buried in lava 30 meters thick. The rest of the town was covered in volcanic ash up to 5 meters thick. Several months after the eruption, two-thirds of the island’s residents returned to Heimaey to rebuild their town and homes.

The islands boast the largest puffin colony in the world with over 3 million birds returning to the islands to nest each summer. The lava on Eldfell, the 250 meter high volcano formed during the 1973 eruption, is still steaming one meter below the surface. The islands are spectacularly beautiful and are home to some of the most diverse bird species found anywhere in Iceland.

Below are several student descriptions of their field trip to Vestmannaeyjar.

Emily: The history behind the Islands is what interested me the most. It’s hard to believe that after surviving a volcanic eruption that wiped out a significant part of the town, people still moved back. I guess living in a place as “dangerous” as these islands and feeling comfortable here is one example of knowing your home and taking pride in where you live. To live here you’d have to truly be connected with the land and the sea. When you grow up in an area all your life, you do feel connected to the place. It becomes a part of you (and defines who you are).

Gabby: What impacted me the most during this trip? A couple of things did. The first one is the amazing beauty of this country. I’ve said it before and I’ve seen it before, but I am continually amazed by it. Almost everywhere we go, there’s amazing beauty. When wee first came to the harbor, and the sunlight was hitting the mountain on the other side of the bay, the birds flying around, I just thought: “Wow. This place is amazing.”

The second thing that impacted me was the way people pulled together and worked to save their town (when it was destroyed by the 1973 volcano). They had to make some hard choices, such as letting part of
the town be destroyed in order to save the harbor. That took courage and thinking into the future. What good are the buildings in the town without the harbor (that susatains the fishing industry)? That’s the kind of thinking we need more of. (For example,) What good are our industries without the resources that support them? What good is the economy without nature’s life support systems?

Ian: The trip to the Westman Islands was a rejuvenating experience for me. It was dreamlike as we approached by air the mysterious volcanic island surrounded by
high cliffs. Exiting the shuttle bus from the airport, the refreshing smell of the ocean wafted through my senses… this weekend provided thick fish and ocean aromas that made me feel at home. During the first night I took a jaunt into the lava field. It was an eerily calm and warm evening for this off shore island that boasted the spot with the highest winds in all of Europe. The moon radiated down and the northern lights did not disappoint, painting the sky with greens and silver. The cliffs of Heimaklettur showed off their stern presence growing out of the waters radiated in golden light from the town below. I reminisced of my summer living on the sea, as I watched a few lonely offshore fishing vessels leave the harbor setting their course for the waters of Norway or possibly Greenland.

The following morning I awoke to the realization that Poseidon had conjured up a fierce Gail. It was blowing about 40 knots and pelting frozen rain. As much as I wanted to curl up and spend the morning in bed I forced myself to rise and discover more of the majestic beauty of Heimaey. I left the hotel and started walking and climbed the volcano that had decimated this fishing village only 30 years ago. As I climbed, the wind grew in force and challenged my ability to stay upright. Unlike other occasions when one may curse such weather, on this day it
complimented the volcanic surroundings. It is always amazing to gaze from the top of a volcano and see the path of its lava. In this case, however, one had to think of all the homes that were beneath my very feet from the eruption 1973.

When it came time to leave I had mixed feelings. I wanted to run and find the nearest captain who would take me aboard... It was like saying good bye to a girl friend when you go on a trip: How long would it be till I would see my ocean again?

During the trip I had the pleasure of interviewing two very interesting islanders. Leslie and I have been trying to add an aspect to our film about Iceland’s citizen perspectives on environmental issues. Our first interview was with Simi, an ex fishing captain (and bank manager) who now makes his livelihood in tourism. One of the most astounding pieces of information I received from Simi was his first hand evidence of Global Warming. I queried him if he had seen any new species in the area over the past few years. He replied, “Why yes, three years ago we began seeing flounder,” a species non native to Icelandic waters until the recent warming of the
Atlantic. He also noted that the larger-sized cod do not come as near the island as they
once did but stay farther north in colder waters. Simi was very aware of the
possibilities of detrimental impacts to the ocean if the seas temperatures continue to rise.

We also spoke with Margo Renner. Margo was born in Wisconsin and participated in a
study abroad program on the Westman Islands when she was in High school. She fell in love with the island, returned after she graduated, got married and had a family. She had many insights into the deep connection between the islanders and their respect/connection with the natural world. She concluded that this (connection) was fostered from their remote location
and radical weather. Margo also added to our documentation a perspective of contrasting the cultures between the American Midwest and an Icelandic fishing
village. Margo saw many things that both communities could learn from each other

Justin: On another adventure, the CELL group traveled to Vestmannaeyjar, or Westman Islands in English. We had awaited this adventure for quite some time since the small five and nine passenger planes were not able to take off in the previous weeks since the weather in Iceland had been quite rainy and windy. Well, it was worth the wait. The small village on Heimaey, has a population of roughly 4,500 people. The small fishing community had this stark, feel, and aroma to it that was very welcoming, and I fell in love with the place immediately. You could really tell you were on an island; you could practically see the ocean on all sides of you. We checked into a very cozy bed and breakfast, before heading off toeat some lunch at a tiny café by the harbor. The café had a brilliant sense ofhistory, with the models of fishing boats on the walls and pictures abound. I feltalmost at home every time I stepped into the café, underneath the sign blaring“opid,” to eat. That evening was one of the most beautiful and spiritual experiences I have had inIceland. Taking a breathtaking walk along the black lava coast, with the wavescrashing on the edge, followed by the tumbling of smooth stones zooming back to seain a fury, only to be pushed back by the next wall of water. Being able to see themoon cast a brilliant light on the main island… was awe-inspiring. At that moment, I knew what really mattered. The ability to be content with yourself and rejoice in it – is priceless. The fact I am in Iceland on this adventure revolving around sustainability has honestly reinvigorated my soul. Vestmannaeyjar, I will never forget you for what you gave me these past two days. We will meet again. I promise!