CELL Trip to Mt. Hekla and the Gunnarsholt Research Center

On September 28th, we visited the Gunnarsholt (Soil Association) Research Center where we learned about the amazing things this organization is doing, in collaboration with many other organizations and farms, to tackle Iceland's number one environmental problem - soil erosion. We then traveled to Mt. Hekla, Iceland's most famous, and still active, volcano.

Below are several student accounts of our field trip.

The following entry is by Dave Stillson, a CELL student from Unity College in Maine: After going through my Geology of Environmental Problems class at Unity, one very prominent idea remained: any geologic problem that a region faces is inherently tied with many others, and half the trouble of getting to the root of the problem is just de-tangling the web. After a short time at the soil erosion presentation, I realized that this confusion can be completely negated simply when there is cooperation between organizations and the public. It’s so enlightening and refreshing to see a serious environmental problem being effectively dealt with by a dedicated organization in collaboration with the public.

A short walk into the most vertically challenged forest I’ve ever been in gave me a
fast "forest fix." The guide’s explanations of how the area was once a black desert really pounded home how far they’ve come in the battle against soil erosion and the attrition of their beautiful landscape. What was previously a black desert has now become an ecologically vibrant forest as a result of human planting and stewardship. Not only is the Gunnarsholt Research Center working in harmony with other organizations and the public, but also with nature.

The following entry is by Ian Larson, a CELL student from the University of Maine at Orono:

Prior to attending this field trip we were given an assignment to apply "crossroads thinking" to the problem of Soil Erosion in Iceland. Our research primarily revealed the persistent threat that soil erosion poses for human life in Iceland. In brainstorming possible solutions, my group concluded that the key to solving this problem, was large-scale cooperation of the entire nation. The fascinating aspect of our visit to the Soil Conservation Society was seeing that this communal problem-solving we had dreamed up in class was already well underway.

The Soil Conservation Service of Iceland is clearly the most inspiring conservation effort that I have come in personal contact with. This organization possesses a unique and
effective methodology on how to make an environmental change. They identify the problems, prioritize the issues, inform those needed to make the change (government,
farmers, public), and they craft partnerships with all stakeholders to take action (erecting fences, fertilizing the land, and planting various types of vegetation). The potential lessons the SCS has to teach the world community has the power to save the planet. Iceland and the SCS 100 years ago acknowledged that over grazing and deforestation had devastated their land and put the future of their civilization in jeopardy. They refused to push the problem under the rug and let another generation deal with the effects; they stood up and pledged to make a change. In l907, the SCS was the first soil conservation organization formed in the world, and the first national Icelandic policies on soil conservation were put into effect in 1908. Today they are winning the war against soil erosion, and more land per year is being conserved through reseeding than is lost to erosion. This story of success is encouraging, and gives me hope that the forests, rivers, and bays of the U.S. may still be preserved for the future.

The following entry is by Nibby Alioto, a CELL student from Principia College:

During our first week in Iceland, we met as a group and shared our reasoning for wanting to come on a CELL Iceland Program. Visiting the Soil Conservation Service and learning about the progressive work that they are doing directly tied into why I wanted to come on this abroad. To me, the collaborative efforts of the SCS was one of those positive examples that I was seeking. I so much want to see examples of people that care, organizations that are making progress, political will directed towards bettering the environment, and ideas that are being out into practice. I just felt so hopeful after out visit to the SCS. Here, in a nation of 300,000 people the government had taken the initiative to save the soil, not to mention one hundred years ago.

I was fascinated to learn about the specific steps that the SCS was taking to fight soil erosion as well as their philosophy. They are planting about five different species in their land reclamation project: Birch trees, lime grass, lupine, and a grass from Alaska. What stuck me at first as irresponsible planting of non-native species, ended up being a choice between the lesser of two evils. Forty percent of the country is suffering from severe erosion problems. The first priority is to retain the topsoil. Having just been in New Zealand, this was a hard mentality for me to come to terms with. There, non-native species have totally transformed the country so that native flora and fauna struggle to exist. But using the lupine is a transition step; it fixes nitrogen in the soil and enables other species to come in and establish along side the non-native plant.

Looking at the dynamic between the farmers and the SCS was very interesting. It seemed that it was in the farmers’ own best interests to coordinate efforts with the SCS. The information is free. The soil benefits are obvious, and there has even been a recent incentive for farmers to join the land reclamation effort. As of 2004, if farmers do not meet SCS standards for sustainability, they do not get a full subsidy from the government. This is just one example of how the entire nation is onboard with the reclamation. It seems to be both a governmental top-down approach to conservation while simultaneously being a grass roots movement. It is inspiring to see real-life conservation efforts that have the backing and support of both the government and the people.

The following entry is by Sara Domek, a CELL student from Northland College in Wisconsin:

With Mt. Hekla peering down at us, we returned from our blissful walk through the forest to the bus, where we bounced along the remaining 30 km to visit this giant volcano. The Mt. Hekla center was most helpful to me as a reminder of the magnificent power of the Earth´s core. Here, lava has flowed from this wind-swept, snowy peak many times, layering the valleys below with thick silicicic magmas. The people of Iceland understand this power, and they respect it with a graceful dignity and reverance for these highlands. Perhaps this is what connects so many of these people to the soil conservation efforts and the growing focus on sustainability in this country. When your very livelihood and that of those sharing your home are so unpredictable, you learn to adapt and change with the land as a collective. It was a magnificently powerful experience to explore Mt. Hekla with the grounded perspectives provided for us at both the SCS center and the visitor´s center. The auðn (barren/deserted) lands of Iceland hold for me a different type of power after this field trip, and I am grateful to have experienced this. As we ventured up Mt. Hekla´s rocky slopes, I was remined too of the vastness ever-present in Iceland. A combination of the climate, the exposure, and the diverse geology shaping it, this landscape carries with it the richness of solace and the expanse of eternity. Perhaps this is what best defines this land: a silent wind-swept and time-swept solitude - a vast open beauty.