CELL Reykjavik Field Trip

On Friday, October 26th, our CELL group left Solheimar for a day in the “big city” – Reykjavik – Iceland’s capital. A Norwegian settler, Ingolfur Arnarson, arrived in Iceland around 870 AD, and when he saw plumes of steam rising from the hot springs, he called the area “Reykjavik” or “Smoky Bay.” Today, Reykjavik is a bustling city with a population of 160,000 people. Approximately 65% of the country’s population live within the greater Reykjavik area.

Reykjavik is the world’s most northern national capital with a latitude of 64”08’ N, skirting the southern edge of the Arctic Circle. In mid-winter, Iceland receives only four hours of daylight per day, but its summers are blessed with nights that are almost as bright as the days.

Many think of Reykjavik as a frozen capital city. This is a myth. Average mid-winter temperatures are milder than New York City. This is because Iceland’s coastal weather is moderated by the warm waters of the Gulf Stream. Reykjavik, however, is very wet and windy, averaging 213 rainy days each year.

In the morning, we visited the Saga Museum at the Perlan Center. As the museum brochure explains:

“The first Norsemen came to Iceland in the last decades of the ninth century. Their arrival and settlement was part of a general expansion of Viking culture that spread to many parts of Europe. Throughout the period of settlement (beginning in 870 AD), everyday life in Iceland was very difficult. The weather was hardly friendly for most of the year and the land was still volcanically active. The Icelanders often fell victim to eruptions, earthquakes, avalanches and other natural catastrophes that made their lot even harder. And, if that was not enough, they were also subject to the notorious Black Death that led to the destruction of more that a third of the population. However, none of this deterred those who lived here and they developed a remarkable culture with a literature that equals that of any other country in Europe.”

The Saga Museum recreates major events in Icelandic history from the time of the earliest settlers up to the Reformation. Life-like replicas of historical Icelandic figures have been created, based on descriptions found in the Viking sagas and chronicles. Some of the “characters” in these pictures appeared very “life-like” indeed. J

After our visit to the museum, some of our group opted to tour other sites and shops in Reykjavik, while several of us took a trek up Mt. Esja, a 3,000 foot volcanic mountain range 10 kilometers north. The mountain range itself is 20 kilometers long and each side of the mountain has its own particular characteristics, weather patterns, etc.

Sara, Nibby, and Dave had a wonderful afternoon hiking Mt. Esja. Hiking from sea level to the summit, we not only climbed 3,000 vertical feet, we also experienced temperatures ranging from summer to winter and winds from 0 to 50 kilometers per hour. We started hiking in shirt sleeves. Half way up, however, the winds picked up and we found ourselves in the middle of a sleet and snow squall dumping a couple of inches of fresh mixed-snow on the mountain.

It was so exhilarating to be hiking a mountain with such extreme weather contrasts. Three quarters of the way to the summit, the winds died down and the snow stopped. As the snow covered the trail, we found ourselves taking a “scenic route” part way up and reconnecting to the trail several hundred feet below the summit. This was the steepest section of the ascent, with chains and steel support bars providing secure hand holds on the snow- and ice-covered trail.

At the top, we ate a few biscuits (cookies), gulped some water, and snapped a few pictures before the wind persuaded us start down. Within several minutes of arriving at the summit, we found ourselves in the middle of another squall with near white-out conditions. We headed down quickly following the same route we just came up with snow blowing into our faces: inhibiting our vision and frosting our eyelids. Once we were below the steep section, the winds and snow let up and we enjoyed trotting and “skiing” down the moderately steep trail on our boots.

Once we dropped 500 feet or so of elevation, the snow stopped, the wind dropped, and the clouds opened up to reveal windows of clear blue sky. It was an amazing hike: where we experienced summer to winter to fall weather conditions all in the course of three hours.

CELL Geothermal Field Trip

On Friday, October 19th, CELL took a field trip to the Reykjanes peninsula, an area rich in geothermal energy, to visit two geothermal-powered electricity generation plants and the Blue Lagoon: a luxurious geothermal-heated spa. Ok, it was a rough day, but someone had to do it.

Most of Iceland’s geothermal energy is in the form of hot water used to heat over 95% of its homes and office buildings. However, in the Reykjanes peninsula, they are also drilling bore holes into the earth’s crust and tapping high pressure geothermal steam used for turning turbines and generating clean, carbon-free electricity. The Blue Lagoon was created accidentally when it was discovered that the clean waste water from the power plant formed a natural hot spring. Soon, area residents and tourists were flocking here to bath in the warm and aesthetically unique hot pool. The modern Blue Lagoon facility was built several years ago, and, today, attracts over 400,000 visitors per year. The blue color is caused by the algae and minerals in the water, which is believed to have healing properties. Below are several student journal entries of our amazing learning adventure to the Blaa Lonid.

Journal Entry by Sarah Oakes, CELL student from Hope, Maine: Smoke billows out of the smoke stacks rising upwards into the atmosphere masking the blue sky with white and grey. Pipelines cover the area leading to the five different grinding, gurgling power plants. But something is different here than most other power plants. First of all, there are no people around, no parking lots or cars. The white smoke pouring out of these smoke stacks is pure, clean, non-poluting steam and the pipelines and power plants are carrying and producing clean energy and water. These power plants are geothermal plants - a system of five connected stations in the area. The plants are all automated and all five plants are run by two people. Amazing.

On Friday, the CELL group of students got a very interesting tour through these power plants and learned how they function. I was fascinated to find out about the closed loop process of the system, and to develop questions about geothermal energy used throughout the world. First, we traveled to the bore holes, which are 2000 to 3000 meter deep holes in the ground where the geothermal energy is harnessed. These bore holes have very intense pressure in their depths where the geothermal steam is found. This steam and liquid travels through insulated pipes to the power plants where it turns turbines to produce power which is used for electricity. In one of the power plants, the geothermal steam travels through the pipes to a binary engine to fuel three generators from the same steam. The liquid that comes out of the power plants does one of four things: Fifty percent of the water that comes out of the power plant is put back into the ground to replenish the stores of geothermal energy that are harnessed. Some of the water travels through cement pipes to the ocean, and is cooled as it travels to be closer to the temperature of the ocean. Some water is cooled and sent to towns in the area for home heating. The remainder of the water is pumped into the Blue Lagoon, which is one of the most popular tourist sites in Iceland. This "wastewater" that comes to the Blue Lagoon is very pure and clean saltwater. The geothermal power plants take the heat from the water and do not contaminate the water in any way. The water in the BlueLagoon has lots of minerals and silica which has many health benefits and is good for skin diseases, not to mention that it is a wonderful recreational site.

The power plants producing the geothermal energy are very environmentally conscious. The power plants we visited are, by their own desire, surpassing all environmental requirements and are very careful about the temperature of the water produced when it is put into the ocean.The plants spent $1 million to direct the pipeline construction around a lava field instead of taking the direct route through it, so as to preserve the lava field and to blend with the natural, aesthetic beauty of this area.The power plants are also researching deepdrilling (drilling down to a depth of 5 kilometers) to the super critical zone which will produce ten times as much energy as the normal bore holes do now. However, the environmental impacts of this type of drilling are being closely looked at, and the process is still being researched. It was fascinating learning all about how these plants and others throughout Iceland that are harnessing geothermal energy and heat with almost no negative environmental impacts. With the large stores of geothermal energy throughout Iceland, the research and production of geothermal energy makes great sense. As the country researches the possibility of deep drilling to produce more energy, I began to wonder what the environmental impacts of continued deep drilling would be? Although geothermal is an excellent alternative energy, it is important that it is not over used. I wonder if the Iceland Deep Drilling Project is looking into the environmental impacts and looking at how to replenish the stores of geothermal water. As I was going through the day, I started thinking about what kind of impact deep drilling for geothermal would have on other areas of the world. Iceland is very experienced in the area of geothermal, and has begun exporting its knowledge and expertise on geothermal power to other countries. However, is it feasible for other countries to drill for geothermal? Iceland has a small population of 300,000 people and the massive amounts of geothermal the country has in store can supply the energy needs for the people. But what about the U.S., for example, that has rich geothermal stores, but has 300 million people? How much of our population's energy needs could be supplied by geothermal? Is geothermal a potential answer? I think sometimes people focus on one solution to our energy needs, when the answer lies in a combination of many viable solutions. Geothermal energy might not provide for all energy needs in the U.S., but it could be a piece of the pie. Geothermal combined with wind and solar and other alternative energy sources is a better solution and fits energy needs better than one single solution. It is important as we research alternative energy sources and shift towards a renewable energy based society, that we are open to creative ideas that will enable us to collaborate and find the solutions that are best tailored to individual communities, countries, and continents

Journal Entry from Sara Domek, a CELL student from Wyoming: .
Our visit to the brilliant waters of Iceland´s spectacularly calming Blue Lagoon inspired in me a renewed awe and respect for Iceland´s energy development. Not only is this country leading the way in new approaches to energy development, the innovations behind these ideas are founded on a commitment to public awareness and involvement. As every Icelandic adventure has proven (from the Soil Conservation Society to the National Energy Authority), the top-down approach to energy development is not followed here in Iceland. The big-name companies developing the renewable energy at this rich geothermal hot-spot open not only their clean, healthy waste-water to the public, but also their industrial facilities. This past Friday, we were welcomed into the geothermal power plants, invited to indulge one of the most amazing lunches I have ever enjoyed, and sent off to soak off our big day in the Lagoon... and all this was paid for by the geothermal power company!

Now, I am not one to typically be swayed by fancy luxuries or silica-clay mud masks, but I must say that Iceland´s geothermal power plant has won my admiration, and for much broader reasons than this generous day. As we have discussed throughout this semester, Icelanders seem to have a great sense of responsibility: organizations and the government are always searching for better ways to involve the public, companies seek out more sustainable approaches to industrial development, and the leaders of this country are the first to admit that there are always, always improvements in the initiatives and methods being used for different problems. Our guide at the geothermal power plant was so open and willing to share not only the numerous positive choices being made here, but he humbly shared with us what approaches needed improvement. I believe that this humbleness, this awareness and acknowledgment of the fact that there are always was to be better benefits this country in its endeavors in every way possible.

By openly recognizing that they can become more sustainable, more devoted to environmental protection, and communicate and interact even better with the public invites these individuals, these companies, and this country to join in this movement as a collective. The doors to innovative and creative new thought are wide open in Iceland, and I believe the success of
this model is hard to ignore. Countries which seem to be struggling on the path towards sustainability must acknowledge their failures, learn from these, share them with the public, and be willing to stand up, build support, and, with renewed strength and passion, join in the
collective towards a better future. This may seem like a strange conclusion to be drawn from our day at the Blue Lagoon, but the innovations and awareness which were exemplified during this visit reinforced these ideals (and my responsibility to share them). I believe a day in the healing waters of the Blue Lagoon has the power to inspire a lot of creative change in
anyone...perhaps we should invite President Bush over for a tour and soak?

CELL Sustainability Field Trip

On October 5th, we visited Iceland’s National Energy Authority and the Ministry of the Environment to learn more about the country’s environmental issues and their unique, proactive solutions. The pictures inserted into the text are from our field trip to Landmannalaugar this past weekend. Landmannalaugar is a unique area of surreal rhyolite mountains with their soft pastel colors; hot thermal springs; distant glaciers; and magnificient colar contrasts of the green mosses with the shades of oranges, yellows, reds, and browns of the rhyolite peaks. Below are several student summaries of our field trip.

Ashley is a CELL student from Northland College in Wisconsin: Every day that I am in Iceland I realize that I am living my dream: A dream where people have empathy about the world around them. Maybe it is the lens I am seeing the world through right now, but living here at Solheimar (a unique eco-village) and viewing kindness and dedication in a community that is fully functional and happy and then seeing the national government and large national corporations actually caring about the environment – this has given me cause for celebration and hope. The question I have is: How do we get our government and our corporations to care enough to learn from Iceland’s example?

Dave is a CELL student from Unity College in Maine: Partway through the second presentation, my brain wheels began to turn. I thought it was very interesting that the man making this presentation noted that “in a cost-benefit analysis, land is often counted as zero,” a very relevant point which we’ve been exploring recently in class. I’ve never really thought of environmentalism and sustainability issues from an economic standpoint until this program. It’s a great thing to be opened up to. Instead of ignoring something I once didn’t understand, I’ve been led into this world of economics, and shown how economics and sustainability must go hand-in-hand for either to succeed.

Emily is a CELL student from Paul Smiths College in New York: One fact that impressed me the most during the presentation was the usage of natural resources comparing Iceland and the rest of the world. Over 90% of all homes and buildings in Iceland, for example, are heated by clean, renewable geothermal energy and over 70% of Iceland’s electricity is produced from clean, carbon-free renewable energy. Iceland is truly leading the world in its commitment to renewable energy. Sometimes I wonder why places in Wyoming (near Yellowstone, for example) are not utilizing geothermal energy since they too have hot springs and similar potential as Iceland. Geothermal energy could be an important piece of our nation’s energy pie, and Iceland has proven that it is viable. Perhaps we can learn from Iceland’s example..

Sara is a CELL student from Northland College in Wisconsin: What struck me most at the National Energy Authority was the foresight of the Icelandic government: the recognition that Iceland is a country with a unique energy story. Unlike so many other countries, including the United States, Iceland´s government is not hiding behind a curtain of lies regarding energy. Instead, this government is leading the way in methodology in approaching these challenging issues. The deep drilling project which is underway is opening the doors of innovation for new possibilities for efficient, renewable energy for the country. It seems to be a reoccurring theme in sustainability efforts that environmental changes take place in the valuing of common heartfelt connections with place and those who share this place with you. One of the great visualizations of this connection is the carbon dioxide monitoring system which the Ministry of the Environment has implemented on a local Reykjavik citystreet. This CO2 monitor brings the message HOME to the people of this city...it is a direct, open form of communication of the environmental problems facing this city, this country, and the world. It is a message to awaken and an inspiration to create change from the center of the heart, from the place where these values matter the most.

Sarah is a CELL student from Hope, Maine: One of the questions I had before our field trip was about Iceland's energy policy and the success of the country in becoming more sustainable. Iceland is trying to promote the utilization of clean renewable resources in all areas. It's main objectives are to promote sustainability, diversification of industrial activity and the economy, to improve living standards, to expand energy exports and to increase foreign investment in Iceland's energy resources. Iceland has been working to replace fossil fuels as a source of domestic energy resources with alternative renewable sources. Today 72% of Iceland's domestic energy comes from renewable resources. Geothermal energy is used to heat around 90% of homes and buildings in Iceland today. There is incentive to use geothermal heating because it is cheaper than electricity, and it is less polluting to the environment. The 28% of energy use that comes from fossil fuels in Iceland is almost completely for transportation and the fishing industry. Research and work is being done to see how to integrate alternative resources into transportation and fishing. There is also government incentives to drive more fuel efficient cars because some automobile taxes are now based on CO2 emissions, the volume of the car engine, and the weight of the car. The government is also looking into fuel taxes, like taxes on the carbon content of fuel or having alternative fuels, like bio-fuels, be exempt from taxes. The Icelandic government, along with other organizations is taking action in promoting a societal change towards sustainable practices. I wonder if the government of the U.S. started making incentives for people to live more environmentally friendly, what effect it would have on society? What will it take for our society to see the changes that need to be taken before it is too late? A societal shift needs to happen in order for people to want to live sustainably. There is a lot that our government, civic organizations, non profit organizations, schools, community organizations, and individuals can do to promote an ethic of sustainability.

CELL Trip to Mt. Hekla and the Gunnarsholt Research Center

On September 28th, we visited the Gunnarsholt (Soil Association) Research Center where we learned about the amazing things this organization is doing, in collaboration with many other organizations and farms, to tackle Iceland's number one environmental problem - soil erosion. We then traveled to Mt. Hekla, Iceland's most famous, and still active, volcano.

Below are several student accounts of our field trip.

The following entry is by Dave Stillson, a CELL student from Unity College in Maine: After going through my Geology of Environmental Problems class at Unity, one very prominent idea remained: any geologic problem that a region faces is inherently tied with many others, and half the trouble of getting to the root of the problem is just de-tangling the web. After a short time at the soil erosion presentation, I realized that this confusion can be completely negated simply when there is cooperation between organizations and the public. It’s so enlightening and refreshing to see a serious environmental problem being effectively dealt with by a dedicated organization in collaboration with the public.

A short walk into the most vertically challenged forest I’ve ever been in gave me a
fast "forest fix." The guide’s explanations of how the area was once a black desert really pounded home how far they’ve come in the battle against soil erosion and the attrition of their beautiful landscape. What was previously a black desert has now become an ecologically vibrant forest as a result of human planting and stewardship. Not only is the Gunnarsholt Research Center working in harmony with other organizations and the public, but also with nature.

The following entry is by Ian Larson, a CELL student from the University of Maine at Orono:

Prior to attending this field trip we were given an assignment to apply "crossroads thinking" to the problem of Soil Erosion in Iceland. Our research primarily revealed the persistent threat that soil erosion poses for human life in Iceland. In brainstorming possible solutions, my group concluded that the key to solving this problem, was large-scale cooperation of the entire nation. The fascinating aspect of our visit to the Soil Conservation Society was seeing that this communal problem-solving we had dreamed up in class was already well underway.

The Soil Conservation Service of Iceland is clearly the most inspiring conservation effort that I have come in personal contact with. This organization possesses a unique and
effective methodology on how to make an environmental change. They identify the problems, prioritize the issues, inform those needed to make the change (government,
farmers, public), and they craft partnerships with all stakeholders to take action (erecting fences, fertilizing the land, and planting various types of vegetation). The potential lessons the SCS has to teach the world community has the power to save the planet. Iceland and the SCS 100 years ago acknowledged that over grazing and deforestation had devastated their land and put the future of their civilization in jeopardy. They refused to push the problem under the rug and let another generation deal with the effects; they stood up and pledged to make a change. In l907, the SCS was the first soil conservation organization formed in the world, and the first national Icelandic policies on soil conservation were put into effect in 1908. Today they are winning the war against soil erosion, and more land per year is being conserved through reseeding than is lost to erosion. This story of success is encouraging, and gives me hope that the forests, rivers, and bays of the U.S. may still be preserved for the future.

The following entry is by Nibby Alioto, a CELL student from Principia College:

During our first week in Iceland, we met as a group and shared our reasoning for wanting to come on a CELL Iceland Program. Visiting the Soil Conservation Service and learning about the progressive work that they are doing directly tied into why I wanted to come on this abroad. To me, the collaborative efforts of the SCS was one of those positive examples that I was seeking. I so much want to see examples of people that care, organizations that are making progress, political will directed towards bettering the environment, and ideas that are being out into practice. I just felt so hopeful after out visit to the SCS. Here, in a nation of 300,000 people the government had taken the initiative to save the soil, not to mention one hundred years ago.

I was fascinated to learn about the specific steps that the SCS was taking to fight soil erosion as well as their philosophy. They are planting about five different species in their land reclamation project: Birch trees, lime grass, lupine, and a grass from Alaska. What stuck me at first as irresponsible planting of non-native species, ended up being a choice between the lesser of two evils. Forty percent of the country is suffering from severe erosion problems. The first priority is to retain the topsoil. Having just been in New Zealand, this was a hard mentality for me to come to terms with. There, non-native species have totally transformed the country so that native flora and fauna struggle to exist. But using the lupine is a transition step; it fixes nitrogen in the soil and enables other species to come in and establish along side the non-native plant.

Looking at the dynamic between the farmers and the SCS was very interesting. It seemed that it was in the farmers’ own best interests to coordinate efforts with the SCS. The information is free. The soil benefits are obvious, and there has even been a recent incentive for farmers to join the land reclamation effort. As of 2004, if farmers do not meet SCS standards for sustainability, they do not get a full subsidy from the government. This is just one example of how the entire nation is onboard with the reclamation. It seems to be both a governmental top-down approach to conservation while simultaneously being a grass roots movement. It is inspiring to see real-life conservation efforts that have the backing and support of both the government and the people.

The following entry is by Sara Domek, a CELL student from Northland College in Wisconsin:

With Mt. Hekla peering down at us, we returned from our blissful walk through the forest to the bus, where we bounced along the remaining 30 km to visit this giant volcano. The Mt. Hekla center was most helpful to me as a reminder of the magnificent power of the Earth´s core. Here, lava has flowed from this wind-swept, snowy peak many times, layering the valleys below with thick silicicic magmas. The people of Iceland understand this power, and they respect it with a graceful dignity and reverance for these highlands. Perhaps this is what connects so many of these people to the soil conservation efforts and the growing focus on sustainability in this country. When your very livelihood and that of those sharing your home are so unpredictable, you learn to adapt and change with the land as a collective. It was a magnificently powerful experience to explore Mt. Hekla with the grounded perspectives provided for us at both the SCS center and the visitor´s center. The auðn (barren/deserted) lands of Iceland hold for me a different type of power after this field trip, and I am grateful to have experienced this. As we ventured up Mt. Hekla´s rocky slopes, I was remined too of the vastness ever-present in Iceland. A combination of the climate, the exposure, and the diverse geology shaping it, this landscape carries with it the richness of solace and the expanse of eternity. Perhaps this is what best defines this land: a silent wind-swept and time-swept solitude - a vast open beauty.

CELL Trip to West Iceland

Below are a few pics of our two-day trip to West Iceland on September 21 and 22 which included visiting the Icelandic Agricultural University, Hraunfossar waterfall, Vlogelmir cave, and the Viking Settlement Center at Borgarnes. This picture shows Ian admiring one of the University's methane fueled cars. The methane is extracted from paper mill waste pulp in Norway and shipped to Iceland. During our semester program, we are exposed to a number of sustainable solutions like this one.

CELL group at top of Vlogelmir cave just before descending.

Picture shows Kelly exiting cave into the welcoming daylight.

This picture was taken on a hike near Ok glacier.